Toyota 4WD Surf Owners • View topic - Toyota 5L Into 4runner/Surf

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 Post subject: Toyota 5L Into 4runner/Surf
PostPosted: Sat Mar 08, 2008 11:47 am 
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I just want to clear some stuff up about the 5L/5LE. When i was looking into my conversion i got lots of differing information but nobody really knew for sure.

The 2LT-2LTE-3L-5l-5LE are all pretty much the same engine.

The only difference between the 5LE and the 5L is the fact that the 5LE has a electric fuel pump, Electric throttle motor. Now due to the electric throttle it also uses an electric accelerator pedal (no cables, its all drive by wire) and and hence a ECU (which also uses other sensors on the engine).

Now you can change a 5LE to mechanical (or a 5L) by simply unbolting the throttle motor part and installing a 2LT-3L-5L accelerators cable pulley (the one that sits on the intake manifold) and installing a 2LT-3L-5L fuel pump. All of these pumps will fit and run the engine, but on the 2LT & 3L the timing will be slightly out but it doesn't really matter, I've currently got mine running on a 2LT pump and its just a little sluggish down low (but i will soon be changing to a 5L pump any way because i'm going turbo). I talked to a Diesel Fuel injection mob about this (they have come across it many times) and they didn't have a problem with it. Keep in mind, if you do use a pump other than a 5L (or 5LE if you going down the electrical track) you will need to up the fuel. With my 2LT pump on the 5L i had to increase the fuel mixture quite a lot and then the still didn't give the results i was after so i (with the very helpful brother in-law) took the springs out the the boost compensator and put the big spring on top and no spring underneath, so it was acting as if it was on full boost all the time (i have no turbo yet remember) and that was spot on like that.

The 2LT-3L harness (the very little there is) will fit directly onto the engine, only change i had to make was i had to change the plug on the alternator (the 5L/E alternator was different to the one i had on the 2LT, the 5L/E was a front vacuum pump type while the original one i had was a rear vacuum pump. Even so all the lines still bolted directly up.) You can use or your orginal Alternator if you want (mounting brackets will need to be changed but they will bolt straight up to the engine), i just changed because the front vacuum type was more powerful than my old one.
The 2LTE and 5LE all use the same sensors Hence same harness but as for the ECU i can't answer that (but i would assume it to be different)

Power steering you can either use your 2LT-3L type (which simply involves taking the 5l/E power steering pump bracket off and putting your 2LT-3L bracket on, it will bolt directly on the engine no problems, and once again all the lines will reach) or you can use a 5L/E type which will still allow all the lines to reach.

If your going from a 2LT-2LTE you will need to change the starter motor (or just its gear) as the 3L-5L/E starter is 10 tooth while the 2LT-2LTE is only 11.

Heads are the same, just will different Cams. So all your manifolds are interchange able. So you can use your existent exhaust. Keep in mind if you are going from a 2LT you will need so use a oxy to manipulate the exhaust to fit as the Non-turbo manifold angle and height of where the exhaust mounts is slightly different to where the exhaust mounts onto the dump pipe of the turbo manifold. But that's easy enough and its not a major change its only a bit.

Engine mounts are exactly the same.

Flywheel if going from 2LT-2LTE will need to be changes along with clutch. Unfortunately i can't not answer about the 3L.

Sumps, the sumps are all interchange able and will fit but keep in mind if you get your 5L/E from a 2WD the sump WILL NOT fit. And will require you to simply put your old sump onto it. All the sumps are the same volume (7L) but the 2WD's are a different shape and smaller in volume (5-6L).
Apart from the sump it doesn't matter if you get you 5L/E from a 2WD or 4WD.

The A/C compressor the ports are different to that of a 2LT/E so it will require you to either change the line ends or change the compressor to the 2LT/E type (which will bolt right up, they use the same mountings).

If you 2LT/E has a coolant filler on the thermostat housing and doesn't have one on the radiator then that will need to be taken off your engine and put onto the 5L/E (will bolt right up). As the 5L/E doesn't use that, it only has a filler on the radiator.

Air intake. This may or may not require a bit of hose cutting depending on you engine. I went from a 2LT to a 5LE (which i changed to a 5L) and i just had to cut an intake hose in half, putting a pipe of exhaust pipe in between it to lengthen it and run another hose for the breather.

IF you have any more questions about this ask me and i'll help if i can

How much did my transplant cost all up? The cost of the engine, fuel i used picking up the engine and going to and from my workshop where the transformation was taking place, and the little bit of oxy gas i used which i ended getting for free from work.

My current fuel consumption is 11-12L/100kms, but i don't drive fuel conservatively :D


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 09, 2008 12:40 pm 
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Thanks Mad Koala, that's really useful info.

I have 2LT-E and would go straight to 5LT-E.
How much did the complete 5LT-E set you back (2nd hand or new/rebuilt) ???

Considering a swap down the track, this is an attractive alternative to petrol V8 which should be a lot cheaper + keeping it diesel.

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1991 SSR Ltd., Ford 5.0, AOD, D300, 4:1 LR, twin sticks, lockers, etc.
36x12.5x15 Swampers on Designfab locks for play
Coil SAS by Buds Customs

Check ya nuts often, good health advice for you and your rig....


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 09, 2008 2:21 pm 
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Location: Western Australia
Mr DJ wrote:
Thanks Mad Koala, that's really useful info.

I have 2LT-E and would go straight to 5LT-E.
How much did the complete 5LT-E set you back (2nd hand or new/rebuilt) ???

Considering a swap down the track, this is an attractive alternative to petrol V8 which should be a lot cheaper + keeping it diesel.


My engine cost me $3000, with the lot. I could take any thing out of the engine bay i wanted, plus ECU and Accel pedal. Was 2nd hand but with only 160,000kms on the clock. I may have been able to pick a cheaper one up but i was in a rush and they are hard to come by 2nd hand around here.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 29, 2008 1:22 am 
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Location: Germany
Hi, I just finished to converse the 5L into an Hilux instead of the 2L and the Turbokit is reinstalled also, look here: http://forum.buschtaxi.org/3l-oder-1kzt ... 17188.html

Greets Gunther from Germany


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 29, 2008 5:54 pm 
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Thanks Gunther, but you have put in a 1kzte not a 5L.
Both are 3 liter engines but are very different motors.

You Lux should go well with the 1kz =D>

BTW, I can't read Deutsch so you will need to translate ](*,)

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Doug.

1991 SSR Ltd., Ford 5.0, AOD, D300, 4:1 LR, twin sticks, lockers, etc.
36x12.5x15 Swampers on Designfab locks for play
Coil SAS by Buds Customs

Check ya nuts often, good health advice for you and your rig....


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 29, 2008 7:12 pm 
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Mr DJ wrote:
Thanks Gunther, but you have put in a 1kzte not a 5L.
Both are 3 liter engines but are very different motors.

You Lux should go well with the 1kz =D>

BTW, I can't read Deutsch so you will need to translate ](*,)


No, you misunderstood it. I just first asked if it is better to put in a 1KZT or a 3L and reinstall my Garret Turbo Kit (which I drove before with the 2L). Then I decided to take the 3L or 5L because of the easy plug and play covcersion and because of the thermal problems with the 1KZT. But the 3L and 5L are very hard to get in Europe. Then i got an broken down 3L from France, but he was too bad to rebuild it. Then I got an very good 5L out of an accident Dyna MY 2000 from Switzerland with low mileage: This one now is installed.
Greets Gunther
b


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 29, 2008 7:40 pm 
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My apologies Gunther, thanks for the translation :D

Do you have any tips for us or things to to watch out for when swapping the 2 engines over ??

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Doug.

1991 SSR Ltd., Ford 5.0, AOD, D300, 4:1 LR, twin sticks, lockers, etc.
36x12.5x15 Swampers on Designfab locks for play
Coil SAS by Buds Customs

Check ya nuts often, good health advice for you and your rig....


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 29, 2008 7:54 pm 
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Please let us know how it goes. I dropped the Surf off today to have the conversion done. It should take one week. I can't wait to get it back.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 30, 2008 10:46 am 
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exdisco68 wrote:
Mr DJ wrote:
Thanks Gunther, but you have put in a 1kzte not a 5L.
Both are 3 liter engines but are very different motors.

You Lux should go well with the 1kz =D>

BTW, I can't read Deutsch so you will need to translate ](*,)


No, you misunderstood it. I just first asked if it is better to put in a 1KZT or a 3L and reinstall my Garret Turbo Kit (which I drove before with the 2L). Then I decided to take the 3L or 5L because of the easy plug and play covcersion and because of the thermal problems with the 1KZT. But the 3L and 5L are very hard to get in Europe. Then i got an broken down 3L from France, but he was too bad to rebuild it. Then I got an very good 5L out of an accident Dyna MY 2000 from Switzerland with low mileage: This one now is installed.
Greets Gunther
b


geez... you must have really wanted a 3L.....or 5L for that matter.
they are very common over here.

Cheers
Brenton

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri May 29, 2009 12:59 pm 
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Location: Sutherland NSW
Hey Guys,

I am about to do this conversion from a 2L-TE to the 5L-TE and only have one question, how did anyone go with the oil return line from the turbo?? I notice the 2L-TE block is drilled and tapped with a fitting on it just under the turbo and the 5L-E block has no provision for this.
Any thought will be appreciated.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri May 29, 2009 3:48 pm 
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Although I haven't done a conversion like this, I imagine that you could just drill a hole in the side of the sump somewhere and have a hose fitting welded onto the sump.
After all, it's only a return line.....
Cheers, Dan.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri May 29, 2009 7:49 pm 
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Actually the turbo oil return on the 2L-Te is pressed into the block, you'll find this out when sitting for ages turning it with the big spanner wondering why it won't come out..

Most common way around this as Dan has suggested is to weld a fitting into the sump or some even tee off the vacuum pump oil return but as that isn't very big I wouldn't advise it

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His. 1990 UZN130 SSR Limited. 1UZ-FE, 5 speed manual, Updated to SSR-G spec
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 03, 2009 7:55 pm 
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Alternator return is adequate but a barbed fitting screwed into the sump is neater. u don't have to weld if you source the rite tapered fitting and thread seal it in there Heaps of blokes adding turbo's to other engines use this method with no leaks or issues, theres no pressure in the sump remember.

Have done alternator return on 2 mates hiluxs which are big K work vehicles and they haven't had any problems.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 25, 2010 1:48 am 
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Location: Trinidad and Tobago
Hello i have a 5le in my surf
When i put the ac on it does not idle up, where is the vacuum line?
Where should this be connected to.
Also with ac on it moves really sluggish can any of you give me a service manual.

Also there is a hose on top of the tapping pan where should this be connected.
My 5l has a coolant port on the engine should the small line close to the radiator cap connect to the over flow bottle, so i have two coolant ports one on the radiator and one on the engine.
I get about 400 kilo from fill to 1/4 tank, with ac off how much do you all get.

Another thing my 5l idles at 500 rpm and when the ac is on it drops to 300rpm making the clutch fan spin slow, how much do you 5l idle at?
And once again i need help finding that vacuum to idle up when ac is on
Thanks.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 26, 2010 9:53 pm 
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TRINI-SURF wrote:
Hello i have a 5le in my surf
When i put the ac on it does not idle up, where is the vacuum line?
Where should this be connected to.
Also with ac on it moves really sluggish can any of you give me a service manual.

Also there is a hose on top of the tapping pan where should this be connected.
My 5l has a coolant port on the engine should the small line close to the radiator cap connect to the over flow bottle, so i have two coolant ports one on the radiator and one on the engine.
I get about 400 kilo from fill to 1/4 tank, with ac off how much do you all get.

Another thing my 5l idles at 500 rpm and when the ac is on it drops to 300rpm making the clutch fan spin slow, how much do you 5l idle at?
And once again i need help finding that vacuum to idle up when ac is on
Thanks.


I've got a 5L (not the 5LE) so I'm unsure about the ac vac line. I would have thought that with the 5LE's it would have been built that the ECU would detect when AC is on and idle up the engine, as they use fly-by-wire there is no throttle lever for the ac vac diagram to react onto.

Engine should idle at around 750/800rpm and have roughly a 150rpm increase for AC

The only lines that should be going to your overflow tank is ones coming off from the radiator cap neck. so unless you have two radiator caps you should only have one overflow line.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jun 04, 2010 12:50 pm 
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Location: Trinidad and Tobago
Hey, is your transmission?
Mines is and it takes longer to go in to 3rd gear. I would have to release my foot of the peddle a little before it goes into 3rd gear. does yours do that?
And when the a/c is on it revs up sometimes and just settles back down, some one told me it needs a TPS whatever that is i am not sure
Any ideas on why the gears take long to go in, and what can i do?
Thanks/


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 05, 2010 9:20 am 
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TPS = Throttle Position Sensor

Gear issue could be related to TPS malfunction or settings.

Plenty of info here on them.

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Doug.

1991 SSR Ltd., Ford 5.0, AOD, D300, 4:1 LR, twin sticks, lockers, etc.
36x12.5x15 Swampers on Designfab locks for play
Coil SAS by Buds Customs

Check ya nuts often, good health advice for you and your rig....


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 18, 2012 11:19 am 
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Hi Mad Koala,

Info is handy, if you don't mind i might send you a PM with a couple qns. but i have to post 3 times first - new member.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 11:14 pm 
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My brother ripped the 2L out of his Surf and replaced it with a 5L years ago. From memory all i did was change the alternator plug and everything else was pretty much a straight swap. He started off with the 2.4 turbo set up on it but it was a tad small so he fabricated a steampipe manifold and put a T25 off a SR20 on it. On 12psi it s***s all over my V6 4Runner


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 28, 2012 12:03 am 
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thanks for info mad koala


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 Post subject: 5L to Canada
PostPosted: Sat Feb 02, 2013 2:15 am 
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Location: Canada
Hi all,

Was thinking of converting at 2L-TE to a 5L-T. I live in Canada and it ain't easy to find a 5L.

I went online and found a company called LYP (www.autolyp.com) who says they can get me a 5L in-complete engine for $895 us. According to them, it comes with the following

OUR 5L IN-COMPLETE ENGINE INCLUDE ENGINE BLOCK/CYLINDER HEAD/CRANKSHAFT/ CAMSHAFT/ CONNECTING ROD/VALVE/VALVE RETAINER/SPRING/PISTON/PISTON RING/ BEARING/ CLAMP AND SO ON.I WOULD LIKE TO SEND YOU A PICTURE WITH ATTCHMENT,PLEASE PAY ATTENTION TO RECEIVE IT AND CONFIRM WHETHER IT IS YOU NEED?THANKS.

They sent a picture which looked like the following:


Image

I was just wondering what you thought. Does the description match the picture? Would it be worth looking more into it?

Thanks.


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 Post subject: Re: Toyota 5L Into 4runner/Surf
PostPosted: Mon Oct 28, 2013 8:22 pm 
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Location: Adelaide
just put a 5L+ct20 In my Landcruiser bundera LJ70 1986 it had a old 2lt(roller rocker) just trying to work out where wires and vacuum lines go now?


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